At 100 microns XYZ, I use a baseline exposure time of between 4 and 14 seconds depending on the type of results that I need. You can use the generalized scaling factor on Kudo3D’s exposure time scale (http://www.kudo3d.com/recommended-printing-parameters-exposure-time-lifting-height-lifting-speed/) to extrapolate this for other XY resolutions.
3-4 seconds is the minimum exposure time necessary to make a solid part and is thus the easiest to print. However, since the resin does not reach a full cure on the build plate, larger parts are more likely to warp after UV post-curing.
For parts that require shape stability, I use more, up to 14 seconds for really big parts (like for http://www.kudo3d.com/forums/topic/injection-mold-core/, I started at 4.5 seconds in the settings that I posted, but you’ll notice in the pictures that I was clamping the part to the build plate to keep it flat during post-curing. That didn’t really work out in the long term. Raising the baseline exposure to 14 seconds worked better.)
One thing to note is that FTD IB sticks more strongly to the FEP film when printing compared to 3DM ABS or MakerJuice G+. You’ll need higher and slower lifts when using FTD IB, and in general it’s a bit more challenging to use. Still, I love FTD IB and have done most of my prints with this material. It holds pigments well (although I haven’t tried the new MakerJuice formula yet) and has a good range of functionality.
