I started to look at the Brightness, Contrast, and Gamma settings but I don’t see enough of a noticeable change to feel this is going to have any real effect on solving the problem.
Sure you can change the brightness, but that makes the black blacker but the white less white—-in the end you will wind up increasing exposure time to compensate for the less intense whites which will still get you the same cumulative amount of ambient light (even if its in lower doses)—-In other words I dont see this as working which is what you both ihkim and jkao have said in their findings as well.
Also, I noticed if you alter the gamma and contrast settings while looking at the png files the size of exposed areas “visually” changes.
In other words my support posts are 2mm so they appear as 2mm diameter dots and I can see the actual 2mm diameter dots change in size as I change the Contrast and Gama variables. Now I doubt they are actually changing in size because the png file is the same BUT whats probably happening is they “look” bigger or smaller because “pure white & pure black” is a percentage of Red/Green/Blue and by altering these settings in effect you get more white or black. Which means if you do alter these I suspect you need to go back and print a calibration block again if you really need precision parts——-not that reprinting a calibration block is an issue but it doesn’t look like this approach brightness, contrast, gamma variable approach is working anyway.
I hate to say it but I’m beginning to think this may mean long prints will need to be paused, then the vat pulled out, cleaned, and then the print restarted—— how this will be possible without making an absolute mess I don’t know (I guess using 2 vats and swapping them out is possible)—–but truthfully I have never been able to pause and restart a print with any real measure of success.
Thanks for the comments and help, not sure where we go from here with this issue.