Is this the Calibration part or the Yoda? Can you show a pic of how it’s sliced in CW perhaps? I have never pigmented my MJ-SF and though I’ve found the exposure times that Kudo3D recommends really good, I”ve adjusted them slightly. I’d imagine the MJ-G is close to the -SF in viscosity but probably not the same. I would try doing the Yoda at .1 or .05 mm and not worry about pigmentation for now. I have a batch of FTD-IB I’ve mixed up with Tap Plastic pigment but haven’t used it yet as my computer is sick right now, however stay with it with the stock resin and you’ll succeed. I just posted a thread in Showcase your prints of a torso I did. I titled it SM Print and Learn because I’m learning more I realize from my failures than my print successes. It’s nice to have a good print here and there too. But I wanted to mention that is printed at xy100µm and z50µm with MJ-SF non pigmented red.
The raft is exposed at 60sec with an up of 10mm/m then supports are 30sec at 15mm/m and mostly the print part is 14sec with an up of 25mm/m. Compare the Yoda Kudo3D settings but I think if you set something similar and make sure everything is actually faily level and operating as it should; you’ll get your Yoda print. The Calibration will be good too but this res is to low for the end fine details. Hope this helps point you in a base direction.
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co3Dprints.
