Reply To: Light Dots on Projected Image
Looks like dust has gotten into the DLP chamber.Have you modified your projector lens by spacing it out? If so, the electrical tape method of sealing the gap is not sufficient for keeping dust out....
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Reply To: Light Dots on Projected Image
Also, never use cotton and water to clean lenses or optics! This reply was modified 19 hours, 54 minutes ago by Vince.
View ArticleReply To: Light Dots on Projected Image
Tnx Vince,I haven’t done any modifications on my projector, but anyway will Google for “cleaning dust from camera sensor”, maybe it was already dusty from the factory.
View ArticleReply To: Light Dots on Projected Image
if you haven’t modified your projector it might still be under warranty. I would contact Acer. Manufacturers also offer a cleaning service that you might consider.The DLP chamber is usually sealed, but...
View ArticleReply To: Light Dots on Projected Image
I am printing in a home environment and the projector is out of the box since end of February so not much more than 1 month.
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Using castable epoxy/resin to improve part strength
Hi guys, wanted to share this experiment with you,Following an idea from our great master jkao ;-), i have poured some castable epoxy into a shelled part in order to improve its strength.Part is...
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Reply To: Using castable epoxy/resin to improve part strength
I haven’t used Task 21 myself, I’ve used some of their other polyurethane casting resins like Smooth Cast 300 and 305. In general, the two-part polyurethane resins are very easy to work with. Nice and...
View ArticleReply To: Using castable epoxy/resin to improve part strength
Polyurethane resin is quite exothermic though. I noticed in the usage guide for Task 21 this tidbit:Castings will be extremely hot immediately following cure and may burn the skin. Let cool to room...
View ArticleReply To: Using castable epoxy/resin to improve part strength
Yeah,saw that too, 1.27 cm is really not much, wonder what happens when we go beyond, I will ask Smooth-on.com.Thanks
View ArticleReply To: Using castable epoxy/resin to improve part strength
If I remember correctly, one can pour in layers, although if the resin sets quickly, you have to worry about creating voids. SmoothCast 300 has a pot life of about three minutes, and I had problems...
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Reply To: Shrek's Donkey
MJ-SF xy100µm z50µm. Supports are still in mouth. Ultra conservative settings. Working on setting up can’t fail but take forever times. Recieved some FTD IB yesterday so going to start experimenting...
View ArticleReply To: PSP Resin Container V2 Results
I had a glassier built glass ones for me. I am over the plastic. I also have a guy milling one from a block of aluminium with a glass window sliconed into place in a recess. I am trying to get a return...
View ArticleReply To: Shrek's Donkey
Interesting to see your settings!Am curious why you’re lifting 7mm for all the remaining layers. In my experience, you can get away with just 2-3mm lift as soon as the Build platform clears the resin...
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Reply To: PSP Resin Container V2 Results
@MichaelangeloDon’t want to discourage you from investing in a professional machine but…considering how fast technology is changing, do you think you can pay back your machine with the net margins (not...
View ArticleReply To: Shrek's Donkey
Hey Jensa, I came in and found this MJ-SF had settled quite a bit on a previous print. I decided that I would pay for uptime to help stir the vat a tiny bit in the print area with the print being...
View ArticleReply To: Shrek's Donkey
Sorry I picked the wrong pic. Trying to show how it may be more sensible to have the front cover off instead of the side. Also pressing the side cover on after you’ve started a print is kinda wonky....
View ArticleReply To: Using castable epoxy/resin to improve part strength
Great casts Jkao and Hugues. Has anyone tried using the 3DM investment grade resin’s and made parts that way out of steel? Seems like you could make these pegs going that route (Expensive resin) and...
View ArticleReply To: Finally had some time for printing again…
@Koogie The problem is that like @jkao says – there’s many things at play. If you have MakerJuice G+ and your projector set to 100 um (192 x 108 mm active area), you should be able to pull off most...
View ArticleReply To: Finally had some time for printing again…
Yes, of course, there will be many variables at play. I intend to make large parts (not thick, though), so I wanted to get some idea as to what has worked for others, including curing times, trying to...
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